Leisurely cruising TRNC to Mamaris

We said goodbye to Karpaz Gate Marina on Saturday 28th April, finally checking out at 1330 Hours, having coordinated with a Belize registered Hanse 60 coming in from Lebanon.  We and two other boats were ready to front the officials at 0900 Hours but they didn't turn up until 1300 Hours and saw the incoming boat first, much to our chagrin!!

The dock party for drinks @ Kinabalu the night before was a great success and we were sorry to leave all of our new found friends.

Because of our late start we reached Dana Adasi anchorage 36.11.4N 33.48.6E around 2100 Hours with only a couple of small fishing boats to keep us company.  Anchored in 9m of water on the northern side of the island and had a very peaceful night.  In the morning a large herd of very well fed goats, brown, black and grey, came trotting down the steep paths from the ridge and ambled along the shore, past the settlement ruins and sarcophagos.  We were breakfasting in the cockpit and were fascinated - in fact we saw them again high on the ridge when we came through after our check-in at Tasucu.

The checkin at Tasucu on Sunday was another story......stern to on the dock, welcomed by a self-proclaimed Dockmaster (we suspect), walked to the Harbour Master for the transit log 55TL and then a taxi to the doctor for health clearance.  Pressed all the bells to the apartment block and our taxi driver ran upstairs to find him.  Chopped and no charge!  Then to Customs for immigration visas, but the Customs Officer was eating with his family and would we mind waiting until early evening?  No problem to us of course, and so took a bus to Silifke, a few miles north of Tasucu port, for lunch and then a visit to the local market for fresh provisions.

Arrived back to find that our boat was berthed in a spot that 2 private fishing boats had vacated that morning and were wanting to get back in. Fortunately one of the guys used to be a NATO soldier and spoke very good English, but tempers were frayed on the other boat and it was clear that we had to do something.  Our NATO friend got the police to phone the Customs Officer who was still eating a meal with his family but could arrive in 30 minutes which was too long for the four men sitting in one of the fishing boats. So someone had a great idea that we could berth temporarily next to the rather large ferry and then it seemed everyone was happy, except of course the Customs Officer who took our 80TL for visas, stamped the transit log and left before the process was completed. We suspect the big boss quietly handled the rest of the procedure and after Bob had delivered one of the forms back to the Harbour Master we departed for another anchorage (Bogsak) in a little bay (Agalimani) about 6nm from the harbour.

The weather was very settled which means little wind, but we were able to roll out the genoa for a few hours which broke the monotony of motoring. We berthed in a fishing harbour, Bozyazi Limani, which was originally intended as another ferry harbour serving Northern Cyprus. But it is mostly disused with the exception of a few fishing boats and one other sailing yacht which joined us overnight. Everyone was very friendly though and we met up with the other yachties for a beer in the little kiosk a short walk from the harbour.  The guys from this fishing boat lent us their hose for washing down the boat (it had rained a little during the night and we were covered in wet red dust!) and gave us a plate of fresh fish as we left:)

Our friendly fishing boat

 It was all too hard to take public transport to Anamur Burnu (ancient Anemurium) or rent a car, so we ended up taking a local bus to Mamure Kalesi, a fabulous Medieval castle with 39 towers, built on the foundations of a 4th century Roman castle.   There was a wonderful old hamam across the road which we explored as well.

A later addition built inside the castle

Climbed to the top :)

View of the castle from Kinabalu as we motored past mid afternoon in the haze

Had lunch in a local village and then back to the boat, hopped aboard and motored to Anamur Burnu (the southernmost point of Asia Minor opposite Cyprus) which was absolutely amazing, so eery to see a vacated city so wonderfully preserved. This is yet to be discovered by the mainstream tourists and so we felt quite in awe at being able to view it almost alone. Although the city was supposed to have been discovered by the Phoenicians in 12th century BC, the surviving buildings date from Roman times with some later Byzantine additions.  Hazy photos taken from the boat unfortunately but you can still see the detail. (Click on the photos to enlarge)

It was quite a calm night across Antalya Korfesi with very few ships in the distance and only one little bird which had hopped aboard for a ride. We watched it dive for a moth on the surface of  the sea and bring it aboard the stern swim platform, tear off the wings and digest the body. Then it crapped on our swim platform ;)

Motor sailed across Antalya Korfesi through the night arriving at Cineviz Limani (Genovese Harbour) at 11.30 Hours (20 hours) to be greeted by a giant turtle and its baby!  Rod Heikell, in Turkish Waters & Cyprus Plot Version 8, states "spectacular deserted anchorage" which was indeed spectacular but with much evidence of previous visitors!  (There was a large group of rocks in the entrance which wasn't marked on our electronic chart but indicated by Heikell.)  Steep sheer cliffs, small sandy beaches, crystal clear water, pine forests and ancient Mt Solymnus (or Olimpus) 1665m, snow covered to the north-east.  We rambled ashore below Musa Dagi which towers above and created gusts during the night, but although we had no line ashore and were swinging around, we felt quite comfortable and safe.

Spot the rocks!

Pressed on to our beloved Kekova Roads, bypassing Finike, and as we approached and mosied into Gokkaya, we spotted "Rockhopper of Lune" hiding quietly.  Had a chat to friends from Karpaz, Peter and Sue, continued on into Ucagiz Limani to anchor near Kekova Pansiyon.  Think that this would be a great place for my sister Pam and her husband, Michael, to visit next year when they come to Turkey.  Departed next morning around 0630 hours, clear and quite beautiful in the early morning sun. The sea mist was just clearing....a place you would never want to leave if it wasn't for the gullets ferrying tourists left right and centre :( There are lots of photos of Kekova Roads in one of our previous blogs.

Motored past Kastellorizo (Greek Island nestled in Turkish waters) on our way into Kas and couldn't believe that "Souris Rose", a 75ft wooden motor boat, was there.  Called on the VHF to Jill and David but now know that they'd just arrived straight from Karpaz Gate to check into Greece and were asleep.  

We say that we only stopped in Kas for Smiley's fresh rolls delivered to the boat free in the early morning, but the little town truly has a charm all of its own and we enjoyed our brief 24 hours there.

Fun and games getting the anchor down in Kas...first of all, everything went swimmingly well, anchor down three to four boat lengths in front of the dock and reversed in throwing lines and securing the boat.  But the French guy next to us was worried that our anchor might be over the top of his, so Bob decided to re-anchor!!  By then the wind had increased a little and there was a bit of traffic in and out.  And we couldn't lift the anchor, it was caught underneath a concrete block in the middle of the harbour :0((  A diver from a gullet opposite offered to retrieve it, dived in and once it was up, with me at the bow this time, directed where we should reposition it, BUT it was across the harbour and by the time we'd reversed into the spot, we'd run out of chain :0((((  So while I fended off a gullet which we were laying alongside, Bob tied the rode to the chain and we were in business.  By then everyone was watching :0((((((((  The only consolation was that another boat which was leaving had also got caught up and used the same diver.   50TL paid to the diver who whizzed around on his motorbike to collect it!   At least we got lots of practice!!

Met by Smiley who remembered us once he'd consulted his little book, lunch in his restaurant where we retrieved our email and Facebook, and back to the boat.   Smiley organized the fuel truck for us and we took on 187 litres of fuel. Watched the hang-gliders, solo and tandem depart from the mountains above and find their way to the little wind sock and a concrete landing stage right next to us in the harbour.   Went for a stroll into the beautiful little town in the evening and departed early morning expertly manoevred using a new technique copied from the French boat next to us ;)

 Smiley early in the morning

You can just see Kinabalu to the left

Our next anchorage was wonderful and we wished that we'd been able to share it with Alistair and Maureen when we passed by this way in October last year. Gemiler Adasi is an island on the Lycian Coast south of Fethiye with extensive ruins of what must have been a sizeable Byzantine community. We've taken lots of photos which show the remains of houses right on the water line just above a rocky shelf which we were careful to avoid! Not too many gullets and yachts around at this time of year and so it was quite peaceful, marred only by the occasional jet ski and wakeboard from a nearby anchorage. Anchored in 15 metres of water and Bob took a stern line to the rocks on the shore (with his new Keen adventure sandals) and we managed the whole process with great precision. Much better than our performance in Kas Harbour!

"Mr George of Seaflower" arrived at 0700 Hours with our fresh  bread, an apple pastry and lemon. His prices are a little over the top for  this part of Turkey but we've noticed a considerable increase as we come  closer to Marmaris. Still inexpensive though and we're happy to help the  local communities when they are genuinely trying to help and are friendly.